Indonesia - Land of Kindness

Featured here the view from our guesthouse in Jakarta La Boheme.

This picture was taken a few hours after I discovered that Mep, my feisty maternal Aunt, was going to die. I sat staring at this view, sipping Casamigos which we had wisely purchased at duty free, what to do?

My Mother, Mep’s sister, seemed to be waiting for me to embark on a long complicated journey across the world to arrive in time to say my last words to Mep, and logically, to be there for her (my Mother) when the final moment arrived. While in one universe this seemed the ‘right’ action to take, my heart was not in it. Staring at this view, I searched my heart for the ‘right’ action.

What was I doing in Indonesia in the first place? On the surface this was one of many adventures Claudio and I take in far flung parts of the world; Sicily, Syria, Zambia, India, Sri Lanka, etc etc. In fact, when asked where I wanted to go, India was my first response, and Claudio wanted something different. Having been in Bali 25 years ago, I was not over excited about going to Indonesia, and it is never really about the place, so I agreed gratefully, tickets were bought, plans were made, and here we were, for a month.

Decades ago, when travel began to weave its spell into my psyche, I began to ask myself before any given trip, “Nicole, why are you going on this adventure? What is the ‘point’ for you? What do you expect from this travel?”. For this trip I had meditated deeply on this question, and the resounding answers; reset, rediscover, rejuvenate our marriage. Fitting as our 15th wedding anniversary was during this trip. Familiar to many, the daily grind of life can easily lead to stale routines and poor habits. For me, this trip was a chance to break out of these and find a fresh way to connect and communicate, with myself and with Claudio.

So, when faced with the choice – to stay on holiday with Claudio or rush back to America – the clarity of my original ‘purpose’ for our trip gave me a moment to pause. Sitting there on the roof, staring out over the city with tequila in hand, as well for the next 24 tearful hours alternating between meditation and delirium, returned me to my heart’s voice. Thank you, Mommy, for understanding, Lisa for your courage, RC for your consistency, and Mep for always encouraging me to fly.

The story of Mep is separate, and as is my way, grieving her will surely lead me to write more about that here too. For now, I invite you on a photo journey, with a few comments and mentions about the places we visited. However, the most miraculous and unexpected aspect of our trip was kindness. Every day we encountered kindness, simple, pure, sincere, random, heartbreaking, tear jerking kindness. Accordingly, I have included a photos of people who showered us with the natural kindness, reassuring me how life and relationships can be, and that a month in Indonesia with Claudio at this exact moment was exactly the right action.

This map gives an overview of our route, beginning in Java’s capital Jakarta (upper left) all the way down to Kuta, on Lombok (lower right). We traveled by train (astoundingly clean, efficient, comfortable, and accessible aka economical), car, grab taxi, boat, ferry, all bookended with airplanes.

From Java to Ubud - cultural belly button of -  Bali (where I was in 1998-9 with my dear friend Joselyn), Nusa Penida - technically in the province of Bali (thanks Agnes and Kenan), Gili Air & Gili T - technically in the province of Lombok- and finally Kuta on the actual island of Lombok.

Train from Jakarta to Yogyakarta. 06.20 departure, with delicious chicken sammy’s from La Boheme and to go iced tea in cups we used over and over and now have at home in Paradiso. A restful 6 ½ hour journey on a delightful train.

Our second stop, Jogjakarta was a highlight thanks to the two temples located within 45 minutes of the town, in opposite directions, Prambanan and Borobudur.

With many thanks to Hary, who started out as our grab driver and became our trusty pilot while in Yogyakarta we enjoyed these places even in the pouring rain. As well one of the best meals of our trip at Caping Resto Borobudur.

Visiting these temples was a cultural highlight and what stands out for us both about Yogyakarta, Rumah Sawah bed & breakfast run by Joan and Rumah, a couple whose magical touch made their guesthouse a fairy delight.

Years of careful tending makes the garden at Rumah Sawah a welcome haven of quiet juxtaposed with the maddening noise and pace of Yogyakarta and Rumah, small in size, is surely a giant in heart and kindness. His morning fruit juices were refreshing followed by inspiring chats with Joan, his wife and partner in this magical fairyland.

Next stop Malang. An odd stopover considering that we chose to THE highlight that brings people through there – Mt. Bromo. What did dazzle us were the women who ran the Snooze Malang guesthouse, featured in their own photo here (Vania is missing in the phot, and present in our hearts), a credit to the group who owns Snooze. Kind, full of mischief, and ever welcoming we felt like we were bidding farewell to family when we left.

Ever intrepid we wandered around Malang, on foot, soaking up the sites, chatting with locals and generally relishing the experience of being there. The blue and rainbow city’s, slums painted and cleaned up to become tourist attraction, were interesting to visit and a genuine reflection of the optimism embedded in Java’s culture. Worth a mention, daily reflexology at Khayangan Reflexology & Salon. I would literally go back to Malang to visit the women of Snooze and have treatments here. Overall Malang was a highlight of our time on Java.

In Banyuwangi, our last chance to visit one of Java’s volcanoes, we made it to the heart of the sulphureous crater lake on our own via scooter and a bit of hiking. As well we stayed at both Snooze’s in Banyuwangi, on the same quiet street. Equally impressive as their sister branch in Malang, the lady management team was amazing, and we felt like home. Their suggestion that we eat at the Yacht Club was a definite hit, one of our top meals on Java , seafood soup featured here.

Mep moved to the other side while we were in Banyuwangi, appropriately while we were in a town by the sea, her favorite. That day, 21 December, we purposefully went to the sea including a beachside villa complete with volcanic black sand beach for early dinner while we watched the sky change color over the island of Bali, our next stop.

The photo on the right is among my favorites of Claudio in his new Javanese batik shirt making sure the captain was up to par.

Just a few days before Christmas break, all the public transport was full, so we made our way in private care via ferry to Ubud, Bali. We engaged the same man, Inun, who had driven us to Banyuwangi from Malang (due to same lack of train tickets) and he wisely brought along his wife Rika and young son for the long ride, so they too enjoyed a few days on Bali with family. Rika sent us this little video with photos from our trip that evening, this simple kindness touched us both.

Revisiting Ubud was both delightful and disappointing. Having been there in 1998-9 with my dear friend Joselyn, I knew in my brain it would be different. It was in fact nearly unrecognizable and we endeavoured to enjoy all the best of it zooming around on our scooter.

The best thing about Ubud, was meeting Brandon, an American guy who was our neighbor for two nights at Sumantra guesthouse. On Christmas day we went together to the sacred Monkey forest, after which we had a full Turkish meal including Adana kebab! 

Intrepid we set out for a day trip to Mt. Batur, directly behind us here, via scooter with Brandon.

We scootered right out of Ubud to Mt Batur, circumventing the entire volcano with stops for imaginative fruit juices, a local hot spring, and lava walking, always seeming to outrun the rain.

Hard to top circumnavigating a volcano on our scooters, we stopped for sunset cocktails at a ‘random’ bar Brandon found on google maps and indulged in luxurious views and tastes at Arriba cocktail bar.

Our final adventure together in Ubud was to walk through the rice fields to Sweet Orange a local ‘hot spot’ which endeavors to maintain the original integrity of Ubud, among the rice fields. Yum and fun, plus a tiny visitor who started out on Claudio’s leg then tried to get a lift in his manbag.

After our adventure together with Brandon in Ubud, we continued as partners in crime for the rest of the trip. Thus, you will see him again

In the end, we escaped from Ubud and made our way to Nusa Penida, an island just off Bali’s tip which Agnes and Kenan had told us about. Hidden treasure.

Scootering about we enjoyed the quiet, yet undiscovered vibe of the island. Beautiful vistas, great food, and a cave with sacred temples under the ground.

New Year’s Eve 2024, we enjoyed a day on the beach. Sipping fresh fruit juices, swimming, reading, Claudio even did a beach clean-up. We returned here in the evening for dinner, in what turned out to be a uniquely intimate celebration with just one other couple and a band playing remarkably good live music. We rang in 2025 seaside, easy, light, joyous.

1 January 2025 alternated between overcast and rain, a perfect day to chill in our lovely bungalow at Umah Ilu Island Resort, an oasis with this amazing view. Delicious breakfasts served at said bungalow overlooking the sea, delivered with a smile even in the pouring rain, bliss and gratitude.

Next stop, Gili islands. With our room at Follow the Rabbit, looked after well by Robye, Imam and crew, we enjoyed lazy island days. Bonus, a trip to Gili T where we had more adventures with Brandon, including a bicycle ride around the island. We lost ourselves for a few days in this island paradise, agreeing that this is the first place we might like to return.

Reunited again with Brandon in Kuta, Lombok we luxuriated in the last days of our holiday. Puri Rinjani a paradise a for us with its garden, pool and total chill vibe - our last stop – a small decadence to end the holiday. Many a peaceful moment enjoyed here, our ‘terrace’ overlooking the garden and the pool a luxury much appreciated. To Lombok we will return. We arrived in time for the rainstorm to subside, scooter to be rented and a sunset adventure with Brandon.

15th wedding anniversary present? Driving on the Mandalika racetrack, both as the driver and then in the car with an actual driver. Denny, far right in the top middle photo, the tracks manager who holds the record for fastest time on the track in that car. So glad Brandon was with us to enliven the event, as I was not keen to drive around the track and content to enjoy the joy of the moment for them. Topped off with a scooter jaunt to a hidden beach (featured) for a wonderful meal and tasty cocktails. I think it is fair to say, a memorable day for all each for their reason.

With Brandon, we were together to the very end. We even went together to the airport in Lombok from which we began our journey home, and he moved on to Komodo island continuing his travels in Indonesia, then Malaysia, en route to meet with his beloved who would meet him in Thailand.

Peace out, our last adventure with Brandon, for now. Thank you, friend, for enriching our adventure, see you somewhere. Grazie Amore Mio for sharing this journey, life, with me. We may not always know how, and we are always blessed with magic.

Love is an action

Location references Accommodation - La Boheme Jakarta - Rumah Sawah bed & breakfast - Snooze Malang & Snooze Banyuwangi - Sumantra Ubud - Umah Ilu Island Resort Nusa Penida - Follow the Rabbit Gili Air - Puri Rinjana Lombok Bars/restaurants/other - Capping Resto Bar near Yogyakarta - Arriba, Ubud - Vagabond, Ubud - KHAYANGAN Reflexology & Salon